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HIDDEN HANDS is an aesthetic exploration of the duality that characterized the lives of female spies like Lily Sergueiew: the fine line between elegance and danger, between concealment and exposure. These women, hidden in the shadows of war, were masters of deception and at the same time exposed to incredible dangers.

 

Inspired by Sergueiew‘s role as a double agent, I combine the timeless elegance of Cristóbal Balenciaga with the rough realities of war. The silhouettes are sculptural and voluminous - inspired by Balenciaga‘s precise design language, which redefined elegance and the silhouette of the woman. At the same time, the materials and details speak of functionality and stealth: heavy fabrics, layered textures and dark colors symbolize the hidden, the constant threat and the harshness of the time.

 

The high collar and voluminous layers evoke protection and secrecy, while subtle lines and uneven ruching symbolize the hectic and imperfection. Hidden pockets represent secrecy and offer the opportunity to carry items inconspicuously. The various uniform elements show Sergueiew‘s activity as a double agent and illustrate her role for both warring parties. It is a look that conceals yet reveals - the story of a woman who maintained an unshakeable identity in the chaos of war.

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© 2024 Luca Keil

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